Sunday, September 27, 2009

Pavé Setting


When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is called Pavé which means paved. It's an apt name because the surface looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones.

Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each diamond should be exactly the same size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final appearance of the ring.

Each tiny diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets. Though small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look of the design. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place.

Pavé is a demanding technique that is most successfully accomplished in the hands of a patient and extremely talented jeweller.

The cost of a Pavé-set diamond ring is in the hand setting of the diamonds; as such, it is often much more a determinant of price than the cost of the diamonds and the gold. To evaluate a ring that is Pavé set, look at the overall design. Are the diamonds laid out in such a way that the entire surface of the ring looks like a glittering carpet of gems? That's the sign of a well-designed and well-made ring.

If a section of the ring is Pavé-set, with certain areas tapering to a point, the diamonds should diminish in size as the Pavé area narrows. This requires the most precise selection of diamonds.

All of these elements add to the time needed to make a ring, and -- as the saying goes -- time is money. The value of a Pavé-set ring is not as obvious as one set with a major solitaire; but when you appreciate the work needed to produce one, you'll also appreciate a fair price when you see it.

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